Monday, January 28, 2013

American Jewelers in Paris

In addition to the major jewelers who showed at Paris’ Place Vendôme during Couture week, two presentations by burgeoning American talents caught our eye. The first was Eddie Borgo, who showed his pre-fall ’13 collection in an apartment-turned-showroom on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. This season, the New York-based designer (who, after only five years on the scene, has already garnered a healthy international following) made a bold move into color

He presented chunky gold, rose-gold, and silver pieces studded with malachite, Botswana agate, and delicate blue lace agate, respectively. Borgo also debuted silver and malachite clip-on collar tips and star clips set with glass pearls for shoes. Where to keep all of these urban baubles, you ask? 

After showing a single jewelry box last season, Borgo has expanded into an entire range of them. Inspired by memories of his grandmother’s long-lost vanity case, the designer’s new boxes are made of embossed Italian leather with Eddie Borgo hardware and practical hinged compartments that swing outward.

Over at the Plaza Athénée, self-taught designer Wilfredo Rosado explained that his design philosophy in general—and the one behind this particular collection of nine one-off pieces—is that “there are no rules.” Formerly the fashion director at Giorgio Armani, Rosado (who, it should be noted, was the man behind those diamond and pink Lemarié feather earrings Gwyneth Paltrow wore to the Grammys in 2011) is a fashion-world veteran.

 This time around, he showcased “Art Deco in New York”-inspired pieces such as a tension-set cuff with diamonds and emeralds, as well as an elaborate necklace set with removable diamonds that can be worn with or without a scattering of colorful laser-cut leather flowers. Also on display were revisited blackamoor busts, sassy “lip-licking” cameos, and diamonds on a mesh lace of handwoven gold. “What can I say? This is not jewelry for wallflowers,” he joked. 

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