In addition to the major jewelers who
showed at Paris’ Place Vendôme during Couture week, two presentations by
burgeoning American talents caught our eye. The first was Eddie Borgo, who
showed his pre-fall ’13 collection in an apartment-turned-showroom on the rue
du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. This season, the New York-based designer (who, after
only five years on the scene, has already garnered a healthy international
following) made a bold move into color.
He presented chunky gold, rose-gold,
and silver pieces studded with malachite, Botswana agate, and delicate blue
lace agate, respectively. Borgo also debuted silver and malachite clip-on
collar tips and star clips set with glass pearls for shoes. Where to keep all
of these urban baubles, you ask?
After showing a single jewelry box last
season, Borgo has expanded into an entire range of them. Inspired by memories
of his grandmother’s long-lost vanity case, the designer’s new boxes are made
of embossed Italian leather with Eddie Borgo hardware and practical hinged
compartments that swing outward.
Over at the Plaza Athénée, self-taught designer Wilfredo Rosado explained that
his design philosophy in general—and the one behind this particular collection
of nine one-off pieces—is that “there are no rules.” Formerly the fashion
director at Giorgio Armani, Rosado (who, it should be noted, was the man behind
those diamond and pink Lemarié feather earrings Gwyneth Paltrow wore to the
Grammys in 2011) is a fashion-world veteran.
This time around, he showcased
“Art Deco in New York”-inspired pieces such as a tension-set cuff with diamonds
and emeralds, as well as an elaborate necklace set with removable diamonds that
can be worn with or without a scattering of colorful laser-cut leather flowers.
Also on display were revisited blackamoor busts, sassy “lip-licking” cameos,
and diamonds on a mesh lace of handwoven gold. “What can I say? This is not
jewelry for wallflowers,” he joked.
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